Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Recent Corset Creations

I'm unfortunately still laid up with my back, 4 weeks later.  I haven't sewn in FOUR WEEKS, OMG.  It sucks, and there's not really much more to say.

I thought I'd share my last two completed commissions.  They were both rather challenging overbusts to fit.  The first was a plus size overbust with a waist yoke.  The fabrics are difficult to photograph, so excuse the flash.  This is on a dress form that doesn't have the curves of the intended wearer, but you get the idea.

The next was a commission for an underwear overbust from a steampunk friend who is gifted in the bust region.  She wears a 40H bra!  It was quite a journey getting the fit right, but we both are happy with the result.  She got great shaping and is thrilled with how it feels.  At one point I had to resort to drafting the pattern in 3D paper form to figure out how to make the bust work.  It's a trick I like to use when a flat pattern just isn't enough and you don't have time to sew a trial.

And here's the finished corset.  It's two layers of white coutil with bones in internal coutil casings.  The top layer is floating per client request.  Normally I wouldn't float the top layer because I think you get a smother result without it floating, but I aim to please.

In the side view you can see just how much bust curve there is.  Many corsetmakers would say this much bust increase requires a pattern with gores, but I think I've proved that wrong. With good patterning and lots of bones, you can avoid gores.  The full bust circumference is spread over three panels.

You can see when the corset is on it's intended body, many of the wrinkles smooth out, although I'm still not happy with the look of the seams.  This was definitely my most trying corset to fit ever, but my client is thrilled with the result and has already ordered one in black, too.


  1. Good heavens, If I hadn't done some form of stitching in 4 weeks I'd be barking mad. How do you cope?! It's good to see you posting a little.

    I'm just agog with admiration, especially of that second corset. 90% of my garment sewing is for dolls and I still struggle to get the bust to look perfect. If I were your client I'd be over the moon! I'd never take it off, ever!

    1. Thanks!

      Actually I've taken up cross-stitching while I've been laid up. Everyone is getting cross-stitch for Christmas!

    2. Oh my gosh, I'm a 40H. May I ask what the hip and waist measurements are for the corset? I might just have to commission one myself.

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  3. Very sexy! I love your corsets and am envious that you can actually make them. I haven't done much sewing in a long time and don't have a good sewing machine, so a corset is beyond my ability.