This is the corset of endless mock-ups. Every time I fix one thing, more things pop up, and then I have to go and undo what I just fixed. *sigh* Partly this is taking so long because I'm really trying to get it as close to perfect as I can.
So when last we left the mock-ups, I had made two mock-ups and though the first one had problems, I preferred the shape it gave to the second, corrected mock-up.
So I went back to the first pattern and started from there. It's been months since I did this part, since I was interrupted by illness and then an event to vend, so I can't tell you all the changes I made exactly. I took an entire panel out at the back to create a lacing gap. I took more out at the waist and made some changes to the side hip curves. I don't think I made any changes to the bust yet, because I was trying to get the waist and hip right first. Here's that mock-up.
Here's the back. Nice, respectable lacing gap. At this point I was forced to put the project down for a couple of months.
So just recently I was able to come back to it and I tried the corset back on. I think it's possible I lost some weight in that time, because as you'll see the lacing gap isn't so great anymore. I felt the corset was too big in the side bust and there was also some extra space in the high hip. So I pinched and pinned those areas and make the alterations directly on the corset.
The next step was to take this half of the corset apart, keeping the changes in it and use this to alter the paper pattern. In addition to the reductions on panels 4 and 5, I took some off the top to create the top line you see here. I also had decided the back needed to come higher to better support the bust, so I added about and inch and a half on the last panel, and slanted the 6th panel up to meet it. So I thought I was pretty close to having a final pattern, so I only made up half of this new pattern.
The combination of tightening the fit in the bust and lowering the top line of the front was a bad idea. Without the side for my bust to fall into the line was way too close to my nipple for comfort. I intend to wear this with a sheer top underneath, but I like to feel like there is NO danger of falling out of my corsets, no matter how much bending over and running around I do. So I raised the top of the first three panels again. I liked the height in the back now.
Foundations Revealed on smoothing exactly these kinds of wrinkles on the front hip. Unfortunately, that article is behind the paywall. (As an aside, in general I've found that there is a lot of great content on the site, worth paying for, at least for the course of a complicated project like this.)
Well, there are FEWER wrinkles in the hip portion now. That large wrinkle at the front is now from excess fabric. It's much easier to pull smooth, though, than it was. The top of that panel is still quite wrinkled. But I'm hoping that with stiffer fabric, more layers, and most importantly extra boning, like a bone running down the middle of the panel, that it will smooth out.
I think I'm going to slice a little off the crescent where this big wrinkle is to try to get it to lie a bit flatter. And after all these changes, I have one more thing to fix.
But I'm just DONE with mock-ups. I have lost the will to remake this any more. And I'm out of duck cloth. So I'll be making some slight variations to my pattern and embarking on the actual corset...
I am doing some fabric tests first because I want to try fusing my fashion fabric to my coutil. And I still have to work out exactly how I'm going to do the belt. Eek.
Oh, and I do actually have a deadline now. I'm going to be entering this outfit in the Your Wardrobe Unlock'd Costume Competition. One of their themes this year is "Steampunk: Historical Inspirations." Seriously. If I needed a competition more perfectly suited to this costume, I couldn't find one. But that means I have to have my photos in by Feb 4, 2013. And I'll be in Hawaii visiting my mom for two weeks in January. EEK AGAIN.
I actually do have the overskirt put together. I intend to add more trim though, so technically the hard part isn't really done. (Pleated trim, yes, I make things easy for myself.)
Then I just need to make the headdress, the front Egyptian panel thingy, work on the jewelry, paint the boots, sew gears on stuff, make an ostrich feather fan, and, oh, yeah I think also build a gun out of a brass lamp a friend gave me that would be perfect. So, no pressure.