As I mentioned in my previous post, my favorite method of corset construction doesn't really have a good, agreed-upon, descriptive name. I've seen it called a lot of different things, but none of them really say much about what the method IS. So I've named it the Folded Seam Method. It probably won't catch on and I'll just be one more person calling this method something different, but oh well.
3. Insert the busk at center front, attaching the front layer to the lining. Busk insertion is not really difficult, but does have a lot of steps. I'm not going to cover them here, but instead I will point you to the tutorial I used to learn how to do it. Sidney Eileen's busk insertion tutorial.
The difference from her method is that I am using a 3/4" seam allowance to cover my busk pieces in the back, rather than two layers of strength fabric. So you can see that my lining is now attached to the front of my corset, as is my waist tape. As a floating lining is only attached to the corset at the busk and at the back grommet panel, I simply fold it out of my way for the rest of the corset assembly.
5. After pressing your seam allowances towards the back, topstitch them in place, about 1/8" from your seam. (Note: at all points, you are sewing through ALL the layers, unless you are making a floating lining like me. You can see the lining hanging down, not attached anywhere but at the busk.)
6. Sew a second line of stitches 1/4" from the first line of topstitching. This is your bone casing. If you are using boning wider than 1/4", make your stitching the width of your boning. For 1/4" bones, I find the standard machine foot works great, because it is the perfect width if you line it up with the previous line of stitches. You want your boning to insert smoothly, without having to force it in, but not to be loose in the casing because it can twist or rub, causing wear to the corset.
8. Continue attaching each new panel in this way, until you reach the back of your corset. Congratulations, your corset is all assembled, though you still have some work to do.
9. Now is the time to insert any additional bones. I usually like to have one bone down the center of any but the thinnest of panels. This helps with support and smoothing the figure. So for this pattern I am going to add bones to the three side panels. I do this by cutting strips of coutil and sewing these down the middle of the panel, forming a channel. If you are concerned about strength, you can also make tubes out of these strips and sew the tubes to the inside of the corset, but since I am using really strong fabric, I'm not worried. The seams take most of the actual strain.
10. Close the corset at the back by folding over both the top and bottom layers and topstitching. I was careful to fold my lining layer a bit more that the outside so it wouldn't show along the back seam.
Sidney Eileen's grommeting tutorial. You can use any grommets, but I've had a really good experience with these Lord & Hodge Grommet Kits. The tools are quality and don't warp when you hit them a lot like the ones I bought at the craft store.
let Sidney Eileen explain. I recommend using pre-made bias tape for your first attempt, as the stretch will make it easier. For this corset I used self-fabric, but after trying to make my own bias tape and ending up with a mess, I decided to try using strips of fabric cut on the crossgrain (with the edges melted to prevent fraying). It ended up looking pretty good.